July marked the beginning of midsummer, with lots of wine-tasting activities kicking in. Last month, I was invited to the Edward J. DeBartolo Memorial Scholarship Foundation fundraising dinner at Leo’s Ristorante in Howland. Bennett Lane Winery, Ferrari-Carano Vineyards, and Ahnfeldt Winery of Napa Valley were pouring their wines for the eager crowd.
Ferrari-Carano’s regional manager Bob Leja started me off with their 2007 Tre Terre Russian River Chardonnay. This was definitely Russian River Chard at its finest. Ripe citrus flavors followed by a supple Burgundian-style finish made this a great match for Leo’s delicious appetizer selections.
My next wine sampling took me to the Bennett Lane table. Here, I was offered a glass of their Maximus 2009 White Feasting Wine from Napa Valley. This interesting blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat (two percent) features supple citrus and gooseberry flavors followed by a floral spice-tinged (Muscat) finish that is very appealing. Leo’s vast selection of imported cheeses and fruit was a natural choice for this outstanding white wine.
The 2005 Ahnfeldt Napa Valley Merlot was my final pick. If you are a fan of great Napa Merlot, this lush blend of 89 percent Hardman Vineyard Merlot and 11 percent Cabernet Sauvignon will make you sit up and pay attention. Bold ripe black cherry flavors and a round crisp finish set this Merlot apart from the rest of the pack. I kept coming back for more, and once you try it, so will you. Bruce Ahnfeldt’s wines are new to our area, but ask your local wine shop about them, and they will gladly get them for you.
Thanks to the evening’s hosts John and Denise York as well as the Leo’s staff for a chance to sample some very interesting and delicious wines, while benefiting a great cause.
My next destination was Alberini’s Restaurant in Niles for a tasting sponsored by Mike Lapmardo of Charlie’s Premier Wines of Howland. The special format of this tasting gave attendees a chance to sample exclusive wines and order a fine meal from Alberini’s great menu.
The 2006 Fiddlehead Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley was my first pick of the evening. Bright yet round red fruit flavors made this Cote du Beaune-style Pinot a real standout. If you’re a fan of supple creamy Pinots, this should be a sure choice for your next special occasion.
My next pick was the 2003 Valchiaro Merlot from Italy’s Friuli region. Cool-climate dark cherry and spice flavors made this supple Merlot a real treat with the tasty chicken from Alberini’s kitchen. The 2006 Cigliuti Serraboella Barbera d’Alba from the Piedmont region of Italy was my final pick. Lush dark fruit flavors and a smoky licorice-tinged finish set this wine apart from the rest.
Thanks to Lapmardo as well as Chookie Alberini and his excellent Alberini’s staff for a memorable evening.
The Mahoning Valley Wine and Food Lovers’ Club first tasting for July was held at Shakers Bar and Grille’s fabulous outdoor patio. Owner Dan Crump had his outdoor grill fired up and filled with delicious barbecued chickens and racks of ribs for the more than 50 attendees who came to sample a selection of 10 different Ohio-made wines.
Ferrante’s 2007 Vidal Blanc seemed to please everyone with its slightly off-dry citrus flavors and appealing smoky finish. It was a fine match to Shakers’ scrumptious shrimp kabobs.
For someone seeking a drier-style wine, the Ferrante 2008 Signature Chardonnay with its supple creamy finish or the Wolf Creek Vineyards’ Chardonnay with its crisp Chablis style would be hard to beat. Shakers’ grilled chicken and their fruit kabobs were fine matches for these classic Chardonnays.
For the rib lovers in the crowd, the Ferrante 2006 Cabernet Franc from the Grand River Valley of Ashtabula was a natural choice. The silky plush fruit flavors of this red were a fine companion for the rich savory ribs.
A surprise hit of the gathering was the Mantey Vineyards’ Blackberry fruit wine served in a tall tumbler filled with a touch of soda and a twist of lemon. Crump and his great staff should be complimented for a job well done in showcasing Ohio’s emerging fine wine selections.
Our club’s next stop was a return visit to Station Square Ristorante in Liberty. Once again, they proved to be perfect hosts to our club members. The first wine presented was the Podere del Giuggiolo 2008 Toscano Bianco IGT from Italy. A juicy blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc (Bianco in Italy), it was just the answer for the patrons ordering the Chilean sea bass drenched in a creamy pink crab sauce.
Joseph Drouhin’s 2008 St. Veran from Burgundy, France was next in line for the club’s approval. Crisp Chardonnay fruit flavors and a toasty finish were a fine match for the Drunken Fettuccine’s Parmesan cream sauce over shrimp and jumbo scallops.
Our first red offering was the 2006 Chateau Bonnet from the region of Entre-Deux-Mers (Bordeaux, France). A textbook blend of 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 50 percent Merlot, it exudes ripe cherry and berry flavors that lead to a subtle, spice-tinged finish. The charred ribeye seemed to be the entrée of choice for this inexpensive French red.
The Peirano Estate Vineyards’ 2008 Immortal Zin from Lodi, Calif. was our fourth wine choice. Coming from ungrafted old vines, this Zin developed deep lush dark berry fruit flavors that made it a natural choice for the grass-fed Italian porterhouse drenched in wild mushrooms. This tasty red was our most popular wine at the tasting.
Our final wine was the Malvasia di Casteln uovo Don Bosco DOC from the Piedmont region of Italy. Truly dessert by itself, this reddish pink sparkler features upfront berry fruit flavors and a crisp tangy finish that just screams for chocolate. A club member’s birthday cake was just the answer. Once again, many thanks to the crew at Station Square for a perfect dinner experience for our selection of wines.
My final sit-down wine dinner took me to the Springfield Grille for their monthly wine dinner featuring Chateau St. Jean Winery of Sonoma County. Chef Nick Mileto started us off with a pineapple-peanut-shrimp vegetable roll with blood orange dipping sauce. This tasty entrée was paired to Chateau St. Jean’s 2008 Fumee Blanc. Partially barrel fermented, this Sauvignon Blanc presented bright citrus flavors followed by a supple flint-tinged finish that went nicely with the spicy blood orange sauce.
St. Jean’s delicious 2008 Sonoma Chardonnay was paired to a Hawaiian Poky Tuna Tower (stacked marinated tuna thinly sliced, combined with sticky rice) for course number two. St. Jean’s multi-vineyard blend (some of California’s finest) stood up very well to the vinegar-glazed tuna and rice tower. The textured fruit and crisp finish of this Chardonnay would also work well with dishes having creamy sauces.
The salad course, consisting of arugula and beets drenched in a pistachio balsamic honey vinaigrette, was served with St. Jean’s fabulous 2006 Merlot. The upfront berry and mocha-tinged flavors were a perfect backdrop to this signature salad.
St. Jean’s 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon was served with a slow-cooked St. Louis beef brisket with a poblano pepper stuffed with white beans and Asiago cheese for course number four.
This tour de force entrée was fabulous with the St. Jean Cabernet. A bold blend of 91 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 2 percent Cabernet Franc, 6 percent Petite Sirah, and 1 percent Syrah, it was more than enough for the tasty beef brisket.
For a change of pace, the dessert course featuring a lattice-top cashew and fig dark chocolate tart was paired to Nutty Irishman Coffee. This Bailey’s- and Frangelica-laced coffee topped with whipped cream was a perfect conclusion to a fine dinner party provided by the Springfield staff.
My first store tasting took me to Charlie’s Premier Wines of Howland for their biweekly Saturday taste. The first wine I sampled was the 2008 Botani Moscatel Seco from Malaga, Spain. This Jorge Ordonez selection is bone dry with exotic fruit flavors and a finish lush with the scent of tamarind oranges and spring flowers. If you are looking for something different than cookie-cutter Chardonnays, this is the wine for you. My next pick was the 2004 Italo Cescon Raboso from Piave, Italy. Structured dark red fruit flavors and a firm finish will make this scarce indigenous red a good candidate for aging. Grilled meats and simmering stews would make fine matches for this hearty red.
If you’re looking for an inexpensive Italian Barbera, try the new-to-the-area Veglio 2006 Barbera d’Alba DOC. Medium red in color, with soft, pliant flavors, this easy-drinking red should make everyone happy. My last pick was the 2006 Tiera Zinfandel from Sonoma County. This perfumed Bordeaux-style Zin is just the answer for someone looking for a subtle crisp style of Zin that seems to be getting harder to find now. Try it with teriyaki-glazed salmon for a real treat.
My next stop took me to Wine Styles of Howland for their weekly wine taste. Two distinct Zinfandels really stood out. One was from south of Italy, and one was from Lodi, Calif. The Masserie Pisari 2008 Primitivo Salento Rosso IGT produced lush but defined berry fruit flavors and a structured finish that went on forever. I found this California-style Italian red to be a great counterpoint to the wine I tried its American cousin next, the 2007 Lucky Star Zinfandel from Lodi. Bold layers of juicy blackberries and a spicy toast-tinged finish set this red apart from its Italian cousin, but you will certainly notice the similarities, since Primitivo is genetically identical to the Zinfandel grape. Try them side by side for a real treat.
My next tasting took me to Michael Charles Premier Wines on Elm Road for their second Saturday wine gathering. My first pick was the 2008 Columbia Crest Horse Heaven Hills Chardonnay. Full-bodied with rich citrusy flavors, this cool-climate Chardonnay is very Burgundian in style, but not in price. Try it with tilapia in a creamy butter sauce for a real treat.
For a red pick, I chose the 2008 Heartland Stickleback Red from South Australia. This unusual blend of 61 percent Shiraz, 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 14 percent Dolcetta, and 5 percent Lagrein is wonderful to sample over a period of time. Very floral with complex aromas coming in and out of play, this is a wine for those looking for something different.
At Boardman’s Vintage Estate Wine and Beer’s third Saturday tasting, I tried an unusual white. The 2007 Murfatiar Muscat Ottonel ($9.99) from Romania featured a deep golden color and an incredible floral nose with hints of ripe melon and peaches on the palate. Muscat Ottonel is somewhat rare on the market today, and this Romanian addition is a fine example.
For summer cookouts, a great substitute for Zinfandel would be the Tarima 2009 Monastrell from Jumilla, Spain. With no oak aging, this medium- to full-bodied red reveals lush blueberries and plum flavors and a structured finish that would complement meals hot off the grill.
Upcoming tastings include Wine Styles, every Thursday and Friday; Charlie’s Premier Wines of Howland, biweekly Saturday tastings, Vintage Estate, third Saturday tasting; Michael Charles Premier Wines on Elm Road, second Saturday tasting. Springfield Grille will hold their monthly wine dinner on Tuesday, Aug. 24. Watch for e-mails from the Mahoning Valley Wine and Food Lovers Club for our next event, and contact Brian Fry at brianfrywineguy@juno.com to be added to the e-mail list. I look forward to seeing you at wine events around the Valley.
If you have a wine event you would like listed in this column, please send your information to thewineguy@metromonthly.net.
